general tips & instructions for amigurumi patterns
The basic circle is divisible by 6, in other words there are always 6 increases (or decreases) on one round. The increases form a straight line, so it’s easy to check their positions from the previous round. The basic circle is worked in a continuous spiral, the rounds are not joined. When coming to the end of the round, just continue into the first stitch of the previous round.
Make a magic loop, sc 6. Pull loop closed.
rnd 1: 2 sc in each sc around = 12 sts
rnd 2: 1 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat around = 18 sts
rnd 3: 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat around = 24 sts
rnd 4: 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat around = 30 sts
rnd 5: 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat around = 36 sts
rnd 6: 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat around = 42 sts
rnd 7: 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat around = 48 sts
Mark the last increase with a stitch marker, a length of yarn or a safety pin, it will ease counting the rows. Due to the helical structure, the last stitches of the rounds without increases are not in a strict vertical line but a bit tilted to the right.
The diameter of a 36 sts (starting rnd + 5 rnds) basic circle is ca. 5 cm (2”) when using a DK weight (20-22sts/10cm(4″)) yarn. A small variation in the gauge is ok, but if the fabric of your amigurumi is much too loose, stuffing it will be difficult (the fabric will pull apart and the stuffing will show between the stitches). Keep your crochet tight and use a smaller hook if needed.
Stuff the pieces tightly, that way your amigurumis will look more vigorous. Note that if you work with wool yarn, your pieces will stretch a bit when stuffed (another reason to keep the crochet tight). A few tablespoons of plastic granulate pellets in the bottom of the body will help your amigurumi stand better.
links to other resources
Crochet how to: Magic loop
A video about magic loop in YouTube.
A tutorial about making a pompom.
Basic handsewing stitches explained with images.